FESTIVAL life in Edinburgh this month is not so much of an Indian take-away, more of an Indian takeover. The International, Fringe and Film festivals are all offering an enchanting variety of drama, dance, music and film. But how representative are these events of India today? Edinburgh cinemagoers have already had a glimpse of India's cultural diversity this year in two contrasting films: the record-breaking, super-budget 2002 hit Devdas; and a Satyajit Ray's 1955 epic Father Panchali. These films encapsulate India's extremes: its booming economy and its staggering poverty; its popular culture and its superb artistry.

The Film Festival features four of Bollywood star Shah Rukh Khan's movies. Kabhi Khushi Kabhi Gham, Dilwale Dulhania Le Jaayenge and Devdas are easygoing commercial enterprises; Asoka less so. This skewed tale entirely ignores Emperor Asoka's conversion to compassion, which led to one of the most humane regimes in history - instead presenting his life story in the manner of soft porn. Devdas too ignores reality: this adaptation of Sarat Chattopadhyay's sensitive novel omits one important strand - the class system in 19th century Kolakata.

The movies' catchy, lively song-and-dance routines help to propel the narrative rapidly forward. And although unlike Devdas - they do not star stunning beauties such as Aishwarya Rai and Madhuri Dixit, two of them feature the endearing young actress Kajol. Khan himself will be in town to take part in a Reel Life event.

Another facet of Indian culture is explored in the American film The Guru, in which Jimi Mistry's Ramu is proclaimed a guru without any conscious claim to such fame. The film derives its comedy from the fact that Ramu's philosophical sayings are interpreted as deriving not from the Bhagavat Gita or the Vedas - as he would wish - but from the Kamasutra.

That Bombay influence can now be felt on the British stage: following Andrew Lloyd Webber's Bombay Dreams comes a Bollywood-style musical comedy at the Traverse, Yeh Hai Mumbai Meri Jaan (This Is Mumbai, My Love). Set in the Indira Gandhi era, it explores the social obstacles faced by Hindu-Muslim couples. Replete with song and dance, it gives a taste not only of love, sex and violence but of communalism and corruption in politics as well. This is populist stuff with few aspirations to depth.

Indian ancient classical dance and music retell the Hindu epics which are so much a part of multi-religion India. The dance forms are beautiful and different and give a flavour of the vastness and variety of India. They offer dance and drama, using hands, feet, eyes and even eyebrows for expression in a way that makes it impossible to remain unmoved.

Following their success last year, fusion group Mrigya are back at the Fringe, combining Indian classical music with blues and jazz, a blend of traditional and modern influences that is also evident in the work of Daksha Sheth's dance company. She fuses the North Indian classical Kathak with the slow, deliberate movements of the folk dance chhau, to which she adds the cutting edge of martial arts.

The India theme is carried over into the Tattoo, with the spectacular Manipuri drummers and dancers from northeast India armed with swords and spears. They can also be seen at the George Square Theatre.

So, are British - or Indian - audiences getting a taste of the real lndia ? Well, there may be gaps, but this is India with a strong flavour, well worth sampling.

The Indian events at the Festival and some at the Fringe have been brought by the joint India - UK initiative of Visiting Arts, the British Council and the Indian Council for Cultural Relations.

Bashabi Fraser is an Indian academic based in Edinburgh. She introduces the Indian Classical Dance programme at the Royal Museum on August 21, 1.20pm; and launches her book, The Geddes-Tagore Correspondence at the Scottish Poetry Library on August 26, 5pm.

FORGET any misconceptions you had about Indian ladies being demure. The women in this show fight with swords, twirling their blades around their bodies with incredible speed. "And you wouldn't want to mess with those ladies, let me tell you," says the sari-clad narrator.

Another Manipuri speciality is the traditional drum dance, where warriors wearing large drums keep up a complex rhythm while throwing their bodies in great circular leaps and arcs.

Uplifting, flamboyant and gorgeously colourful, their performance gives a fascinating glimpse into an ancient way of life.